Pixie Wings

This sweet little pattern makes a great compliment to larger squares, or will look equally amazing repeated.

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Pixie Wings

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COLOR PLANNING

This pattern is written with color creativity in mind. Every round (where possible) includes the option to start with a new color or continue with the same color from the last round. This also means it will only tell you to fasten off where you absolutely must before starting the next round – the rest of the time it’s up to you.

If you’d like some color inspiration, take a look at the testers’ versions in the gallery below.

Pixie Wings pattern

This pattern is Copyright © 2023 Polly Plum. All rights reserved.
If you would like to share this pattern, please share the link to this webpage or the Ravelry pattern page. Please do not distribute this pattern or photos in any other form.

Abbreviations

  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • mc – magic circle
  • r(#) – round/row number
  • sc – single crochet
  • sk – skip
  • slst – slip stitch
  • sp – space
  • st – stitch
  • tr – treble crochet
  • yo – yarn over

Special Stitches

3LO{third loop only}

Work only into the loop behind the top two loops.

{Alternatively: work into the back loop only (BLO)}

Beg-PC {beginning popcorn stitch}

Ch3 {counts as first dc}, 4dc in indicated st or sp, remove hook from working loop and hold while you insert hook into top ch of first ch3 made, put working loop back on hook and pull through.

Fpdc{front post double crochet}

Like regular dc, but instead of inserting hook under top two loops of st, insert from front to back around post of stitch

PC{popcorn stitch}

5dc in indicated st or sp, remove hook from working loop and hold while you insert hook into top two loops of first of 5dc made, put working loop back on hook and pull through dc.

Picot

Ch3, slst to back bump of first ch.

Rfpdc{reverse front post double crochet}

To reverse a fpdc insert your hook from the opposite side of the stitch. So, if you’re right-handed, instead of inserting your hook from right to left under the post of the stitch, insert it from left to right. If you’re left-handed, instead of inserting your hook from left to right under the post of the stitch, insert in from right to left. Angle your work as needed to make the stitch possible.

Standing dc

To start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too. Insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop. Carefully YO and draw yarn through two loops on hook, releasing the middle loops, but stil holding the first. YO and draw through remaining two loops on hook, finally releasing all the loops.

{Alternatively, slst from the back to join yarn then ch3 to count as your first dc.}

Standing fpdc

Like regular fpdc, but instead of inserting hook under top two loops of st, insert from front to back around post of stitch.

Standing sc

To start a round, with slip knot on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through two loops on hook.

V{V stitch}

(Dc, ch1, dc) in indicated st or sp

Pattern

Round 1

Magic Circle Start:

Begin with mc. Ch4, dc into mc {counts as first V}, ch2, [V in mc, ch2] 3 times.

Close mc. Slst to 3rd ch of beginning ch4 to join.

Alternate Chain Loop Start:

Ch4, slst to first ch to form a loop. Ch4, dc into loop {counts as first V}, ch2, [V in loop, ch2] 3 times.

Slst to 3rd ch of beginning ch4 to join. {Tip: when weaving ends, use the end from the chain loop to close the very center of the loop by weaving it under the sts and pulling it tight.}

20 st around (4 V, 4 ch2 sp)

Round 2

With new color: Slst into ch1 sp of any V, beg-PC in ch1 sp.

Or, with same color: Slst into next ch1 sp, beg-PC in ch1 sp.

*^Ch2, (dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2 sp, ch2,^ PC in next ch1 sp.*

Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more.

Slst to first PC to join. FASTEN OFF.

36 st around (4 PC, 8 dc, 12 ch2 sp)

Round 3

With new color: Standing dc in any ch2 sp between 2dc. (2dc, picot, 3dc) in same ch2 sp.

*^3fpdc around next dc {working each one BELOW the last}, ch1, sk next (ch2, PC, ch2), 3rfpdc around next dc {working each one ABOVE the last},^ (3dc, picot, 3dc) in next ch2 sp.*

Repeat from * to * twice and from ^ to ^ once more.

Slst to first dc to join {or use an invisible join for the best look}. FASTEN OFF.

56 st around (4 picot, 48 dc, 4 ch1 sp)

Round 4

With new color: Standing fpdc around any PC keeping st in front of r3 ch1 sp.

*^V in next r2 ch2 sp keeping st behind r3 sts, ch1, sc in 3LO of each of the 2dc before the picot, ch2 {counts as corner}, sc in 3LO of each of the 2dc after the picot, ch1, V in next r2 ch2 sp keeping st behind r3 sts,^ fpdc around next PC keeping st in front of r3 ch1 sp.*

Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more.

Slst to first fpdc to join.

13 sts per side plus ch2 corners

Round 5

With new color: Standing dc in any fpdc.

Or, with same color: Ch3 {counts as first dc made into fpdc}.

Dc in each of the next 6 sts and ch1 sps.

*^(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 sp,^ dc in each of the next 13 sts and ch1 sps.*

Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more.

Dc in each of the next 6 sts and ch1 sps.

Slst to first dc {or top of beginning ch3} to join.

17 sts per side plus ch2 corners

Round 6

With new color: Standing sc in any st.

Or, with same color: Ch1 and sc in same st as join.

*Sc in each st across to corner ch2 sp, (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 sp.*

Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Sc in each st across to first sc. Slst to first sc to join. Fasten off.

19 sts per side plus ch2 corners.

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