Planning Your Stardust Melodies Project

Possibly the very best part of the Stardust Melodies Collection is just how easy it is to plan.

If you’ve made any of my designs before you’ll know: I. Love. Options. But, as great as options can be, they can sometimes be overwhelming. Decisions aren’t the fun part if there are too many to make. This project is not like that. And this is mostly because the squares are done all in one color.

So where do you start? Well, if you’ve already decided to make something with these patterns, chances are you have some idea in your head of your finished product. Maybe it’s just a little spark of an idea. But that’s all you need. This page is designed to help you nurse that spark and make your idea a reality.

I’ve broken everything down into 3 easy parts.

Part 1 is all about planning. It’s broken down into 3 simple sections: Size, Materials, and Color. Feel free to start with which ever of the three is most important to you. For instance, if you already know you want to stash bust, check out the Materials section to see how many squares you can make with the skeins in your stash, then move on to the Size section to see what sizes are doable, or to the Color section to get inspired to pick a layout.

Part 2 covers how you’ll be joining your squares together and adding a border. It contains links to my video tutorials for the suggested joining techniques, and discusses the two border options I’ve designed (one free and one only available in the ebook).

Part 3 contains helpful info such as pattern notes and tips & tricks that you should look over before you start crocheting.

Part 1: Size, Materials, & Color

SIZE

This section is about choosing the number of squares that will give you the desired result. The yarn you’re using will affect your final afghan size, so see also the Materials section of this post about choosing your yarn and planning how much you’re going to need.

Finished square & border sizes:

An Aran square will be approximately 9 inches/23 cm.
A DK weight square will be approximately 7 inches/18 cm.
An Aran border will be approximately 3.5 inches/9 cm wide.
A DK border will be approximately 2.8 inches/7 cm wide.

So let’s pretend we’re just making 1 each of the 24 squares, and our layout will be 4 squares by 6 squares:

An Aran weight blanket of 24 squares (4 x 6) will be about 36 x 54 inches/91 x 137 cm before the border, and about 43 x 61 inches/109 x 155 cm with the border.
A DK weight blanket of 24 squares (4 x 6) will be about 28 x 42 inches/71 x 107 cm before the border, and about 34 x 48 inches/86 x 122 cm with the border.

But you don’t have to use all 24 squares. You can mix & match any combination of squares you want. Here are some ideas to help you decide on how many squares you want to make and how big of an afghan you’d like:

Make all 24 squares twice for a 6 x 8 layout and a nice big snuggly 54 x 72 inch/137 x 183 cm in Aran. (With border, 61 x 79 inches/155 x 201 cm.)
Make the 12 free squares twice each in DK for a baby blanket.
Make the 12 eBook exclusive squares 3 times each for a 6 x 6 layout and about 54 x 54 inch/137 x 137 cm in Aran. (With border, 61 x 61 inches/155 x 155 cm.)
Pick 20 of the squares for a 4 x 5 layout.
Pick 8 of the squares to make twice for a 4 x 4 layout.

The possibilities go on and on. But the best place to start if you’re not sure is by making the first square with your chosen yarn to determine what your final size squares are going to be and working from there.

MATERIALS

Which yarn should I use? I recommend you use whatever yarn you love to work with. Really! Use yarn that makes you happy. Use yarn you have in your stash. Go out and find some yarn in colors that speak to you. The best yarns for this project are solid color yarns with excellent stitch definition.

However, there are a few yarns you should avoid. Here’s a quick list and reasons why they are not recommended:

Variegated yarns will not show the textured patterns.
Self-striping yarns will also lose the texture of the patterns – the exception being yarn with a VERY slow gradient color change (think ombres), which has proven to be beautiful and very popular.
Stonewash/marled yarns – again the color differences will take away from the texture.
Textured yarns – bouclé, fuzzy yarns, anything with an odd texture will drown out your stitch definition and that’s what these squares are all about.
Chunky, or heavy weight yarns – again, stitch definition is the key to the texture and you lose a lot of that with bigger yarns.

What hook should I use? The one that works the best for your yarn and your personal tension. If you’re not sure where to start, use the hook recommended on the label of your yarn and practice with Begin the Beguine, then size up or down to find the hook that works for you. This is the best answer I can give you. Everyone crochets a little bit differently. Shoot for a stitch that’s a medium tension. Too loose and you lose stitch definition, too tight isn’t as bad but you lose yarn drape and the stitches become more difficult to work into.

How much yarn do I need? The easy answer for this is: 2040 yards/1865 meters of Aran weight yarn will make you a blanket out of all 24 squares and you’ll need an additional 733 yard/670 meters for the border; or, 1584 yards/1448 meters of DK weight will make you a blanket with all 24 squares and you’ll need an additional 571 yards/522 meters for the border.

At least, that’s how it worked out for what I did. You can do it however you want, using any combination of squares you feel like. If you haven’t already, see the above section on Size to get ideas about how many squares you want to make.

For the rest of this section we’re going to talk about how much yarn you need per square and per linear inch of border* – because that’s more practical than an overall measurement.

Per square you need:

Aran with a 5.5mm hook – approximately 85 yards or less, 9 inch squares
DK weight with a 4.5mm – approximately 65 yards or less, 7 inch squares

Per linear inch of border* you need:

Aran border, Moss Stitch (free) – approximately 2.8 yards
Aran border, I Wish You Love (ebook exclusive) – approximately 3.8 yards
DK border, Moss Stitch (free) – approximately 2.2 yards
DK border, I Wish You Love (ebook exclusive) – approximately 3 yards

There will be slight variances due to different yarns and hooks and your own personal crochet tension and I can’t account for those. But, as a safeguard, my own personal crochet tension is a little bit loose and I always round numbers up at least a little.

*Assuming the width as written in the patterns, which is 3.5 inches in Aran and 2.8 inches in DK. Though both borders can be made to whatever custom width you desire. (See the Borders section for more details.)

Here are some common yarn brands and how many squares you should be able to get out of each skein (not counting borders). No guarantees but these measurements should be pretty safe.

Red Heart Super Saver: 4 from a 7oz skein
Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice**: 2 from a 100g ball
Caron Simply Soft: 3 from a 6oz skein (Ok, you might be able to get 4, you should probably use a smaller hook and treat this yarn like a DK weight, if you do you can get 4)
Red Heart Soft**: 3 from a 5oz ball
Stylecraft Special DK: 4 from a 100g ball (you might be able to eke out 5, but they’ll be small squares)
Stylecraft Special Aran: 2 from a 100g ball (you’ll have about half a squares worth of yarn left after the 2)

**Might be a tight squeeze but you should be able to get them all in. If you’re a loose crocheter go down a hook size.

Yarn Calculator

I’ve put together this easy-to-use calculator to help you estimate your yarn usage and blanket size. Let’s say, for example, you want to make all 24 squares, once each, in a 4 square x 6 square layout. You would enter 4 in the first field and 6 in the second. Then choose your yarn weight, your preferred joining method, and which border you plan to use, and watch the magic happen. Experiment with different layouts until you find one that works for you.

Please, please, please, be aware that these are ESTIMATES. The numbers are rounded up because it’s always safer to have more yarn than you need than not enough. Your own personal crochet tension, hook size, and chosen yarn will all have an effect on the exact amount you use.

COLOR!

This is a very easy project for color planning because there are so many options that will work.

Let’s start as easy as can be: Use one color. Seriously. A single color will put all of the emphasis on the texture of your stitches and that’s the whole point of this project, right?

Two colors: A checkerboard effect? Big wide stripes?

Three or more colors: Now it gets interesting.

Ok, I’ve got you thinking. Before I go on, let’s talk about which colors work and why. Simply, light colors work the best but dark colors still work pretty darn well. Light colors will photograph the best and you’ll see the texture at a greater distance. But dark colors can still provide a rich texture square – you’ll just need to be closer to it to get a good look. The darker you go the harder it will be to see and photograph.

If you’re still looking at color palettes, feel free to get bold. Because the colors are staying in their individual blocks, they won’t mix like in other patterns. Have you ever picked out colors and they looked great in skeins sitting next to each other, but when you worked them into a project it was all wrong? This project isn’t like that. Because everything is color-blocked (quite literally) you won’t have those unexpected color mixes and odd effects. Just plop those skeins or balls together and that’s about the color effect you can expect from your afghan.

What will you choose? Ordered? Random? Gradient? It’s really up to you. Pretty much anything will work!

Color Placement

This graph is made of 80 squares. Use it to plan your color placement. First, block out the number of squares you’re planning on making, then break out the colored pencils or your kid’s crayons and get to work. Print as many of this sheet as you need to try out different color layouts.

Part 2: Joining & Borders

JOINING

Here are my two preferred methods for joining our Stardust Melodies squares. In these videos I tried to really get into the details and answer the questions I heard. Like, how do you join across corners? Or, how do you work along the rough edge? That is all covered in these videos. I hope they are complete and comprehensive enough to get you through the entire joining process smoothly.

Single Crochet Join

Joining with single crochet is the absolute easiest way to join squares. It makes a ridge of stitches between your squares that can really add to the overall texture and look of your project. It’s super fast and it’s fun because it’s just like regular crocheting.

Single Crochet Join-As-You-Go

This join-as-you-go (JAYG) method is a classic and a favorite. It’s very flat and creates a super cool twisted texture between squares and doesn’t add any extra colors between your squares.

It can be used like the name states: “as you go”, or after you’ve made all of your squares. The difference is in the planning.

To join-as-you-go you’ll need to have a layout planned ahead of time. Use the last round of each square (round 16) to do the joining.

To join at the end, first make all of your squares through round 15 (or 16 if you’re not afraid of using extra yarn). You can then choose your layout. As you add round 16 (or an additional round of sc) you will do the joining.

BORDERS

I’m presenting to you two options for bordering your Stardust Melodies blanket. Both border options are very easy to make on any size blanket, with any stitch count, and to any width. In a sense, you can simply crochet until you’re done or until your yarn gets low.

See the handy dandy yarn calculator to get an idea of how much yarn you’ll need. The yarn calculator estimates make a border that is 3.5 inches/9 cm wide in Aran weight yarn, or 2.8 inches/7 cm wide in DK weight yarn, but you can make yours to any width you like.

Additionally, both borders leave you with a clean straight edge so that you can add a fancy edge if you want. Just keep in mind that any fancy edge you add will not be accounted for in the provided yardage estimates.

Free Pattern – Basic Moss Stitch Border

First up is our free option. This basic border is anything but boring. Moss stitch is a lovely way to finish any project. It has a great texture that’s just enough to frame your work but will never compete with it. You can make this border as wide or narrow as you like and it will still look stunning. It’s incredibly flexible and I’ve included a simple trick for making it work with any stitch count.

Get the free pattern and video tutorial here.

Ebook Exclusive Border – I Wish You Love

This pattern is exclusively available in the eBook, as is its video tutorial.
(Buy on Ravelry)
(Buy on Etsy)

Ok, I have to admit I’m excited about this. I’m pretty fond of this border and how it works up. This pattern is easy to make and incredibly flexible. It works with any stitch count and it can be made as wide or narrow as you choose. You don’t have to have your stitch counts worked out at all to add this border because of the way it builds. That means no math, no counting, and basically no planning. You can jump right into crocheting.

Part 3: Notes & Tips

If you purchased the ebook all of the below information is contained in the introduction document.
(Buy on Ravelry)
(Buy on Etsy)

I’ve also included it here for anyone who is only doing the free patterns.

PATTERN NOTES

IMPORTANT – READ BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Each round of every pattern starts by working a stitch into the same stitch you slip stitched into to join in the previous round. But for the sake of repeats, sometimes the first st isn’t pointed out. Sometimes the pattern starts you off by saying to make a stitch into the next stitch. If you’re just starting a round and all you’ve done so far is the ch1 at the very beginning and the very first thing the pattern says to do is to stitch into the “next stitch,” that means the first stitch, the one with the slip stitch already in it. (I know, I know, this is a bit unconventional for me and my pattern writing, but hang in there. When you see how the patterns go you’ll understand why I took some liberties with the pattern writing.)

When you make a stitch into a lower round you will always leave the sc behind it unworked. Count that st as worked unless otherwise noted.

There’s a catch to the two previous important notes – when you start a round with a stitch made into a below round the first st counts as worked so you don’t need to worry so much about the note that tells you to never skip the first stitch because technically you didn’t.

See the section called Stitch Placement below before you start. It will help a lot.

Stitch Counts

Stitch counts are identical for every square. They start with 1 stitch per side in round 1 and increase by 2 stitches every round – not counting ch2 corners.

Round 1 = 1 stitch per side
Round 2 = 3 stitches per side
Round 3 = 5 stitches per side
Round 4 = 7 stitches per side
Round 5 = 9 stitches per side
Round 6 = 11 stitches per side
Round 7 = 13 stitches per side
Round 8 = 15 stitches per side
Round 9 = 17 stitches per side
Round 10 = 19 stitches per side
Round 11 = 21 stitches per side
Round 12 = 23 stitches per side
Round 13 = 25 stitches per side
Round 14 = 27 stitches per side
Round 15 = 29 stitches per side
Round 16 = 31 stitches per side

Crochet Terms

All patterns are written in US terms.

TIPS & TRICKS

Standard Join

When joining a round per the written pattern – in the middle of one side of your square – slip stitch to BOTH loops of the indicated stitch and then pull the slip stitch tight (unless instructed otherwise). Be very careful not to work into the slip st as though it were a stitch when you make the next round.

Corner Join

Here are instructions for an alternate means of joining the rounds of your squares so that the seam goes up the corner rather than the middle of one side.

Beginning in round 2 and repeating for every round: do not pull the joining slip stitch of the last round tight – this slip stitch will act as the top two loops of the stitch it is made into, do not start the new round as instructed in the pattern – instead slip st into the corner chain 2 space (the corner chain 2 space will always be your next stitch), ch1, locate where the pattern instructions say to “work the following on each of the next 3 sides” and work those instructions on all 4 sides (those instructions always begin in the corner ch2 space), when you come back around to the stitch you slip stitched into to join the last round – work into the front and back loops of the slip stitch as instructed in the pattern rather than the loops of the stitch into which it was made.

Gauge

You don’t need to make a sample or a swatch to check your gauge. On the next square that you make, take a measurement at round 5 or 6 and jot it down. On all the following squares, measure at the same point to make sure your tension is on par.

Finding the First Stitch

Put a stitch marker in both loops of the first stitch of every round to make it easier to find for joining.

Counting

The best way to ensure you aren’t making any mistakes is by counting your stitches. Count groups of stitches and count each side of each round. Refer to the stitch counts section above for per-side stitch counts of every round.

Shaping Up

Expect that your first few rounds won’t look great, probably not even very square, until you proceed to the middle and later rounds of the pattern. They will square up and the pattern will emerge as you crochet. Don’t be afraid to give the corners a little tug to shape them up as you go.

Lighting

Make sure you work with good lighting. Using all 1 color means you need to read your stitches for proper stitch placement. Lighter colored yarn and good lighting will help.

Stitch Placement

WORKING INTO BELOW ROUNDS: The below picture is a close up of a plain square made entirely of single crochet in the back loop only. In the picture round 12 is currently being worked. Notice the horizontal lines going across? Those are the unworked front loops of previous rounds. Those are what you want to look for when placing stitches.

To place a stitch in a below round, count the horizontal bars directly below the next stitch. See the graphic below (click to view enlarged).

WORKING INTO STITCHES AHEAD OR BEHIND: Notice how the horizontal bars are segmented? Those are individual stitches. Many stitches in the patterns are worked into the front loop only of the stitch “directly below” the next stitch as discussed above, but some are worked into stitches “ahead” or “behind.” Think of the stitch directly below as stitch zero. To work ahead, count stitches forward. To work behind, count stitches backwards.

Use the above instructions on working into below rounds in conjunction with the instructions on working ahead and behind to place the more complex stitches in the patterns.

I hope this information helps! Please, always feel free to ask if you have any questions or need help. I can’t wait to see what you create. Share your photos on the Polly Plum Pattern Posse and make a Ravelry page for your project if you haven’t yet. It’s incredibly helpful to me and others. It’s a simple way to answer a lot of questions easily when others see your gorgeous works and want to know how you did it.