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If you’d like some color inspiration, take a look at the testers’ versions in the gallery below.

Abbreviations

• BLO – back loop only
• ch – chain
• dc – double crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• mc – magic circle
• r(#) – round/row number
• sc – single crochet
• sk – skip
• slst – slip stitch
• sp – space
• st – stitch
• tr – treble crochet
• yo – yarn over

Special Stitches

3LO – {third loop only}

Do not work into either of the top two loops, instead work into the loop that sits just under/behind the back loop.

Beg-PC – {beginning popcorn stitch}

Ch3, 4dc in same st or sp, remove hook from working loop of yarn and hold, insert hook into top of beginning ch3, replace working loop on hook and pull through.

Edc – {extended double crochet}

Yo, insert hook into indicated st or sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 1 loop on hook, [yo and pull through 2 loops on hook] twice.

Fpsc – {front post single crochet}

Like regular sc, but instead of inserting your hook in the top two loops of indicated st, insert from front to back around the post of the st.

PC – {popcorn stitch}

5dc in indicated st or sp, remove hook from working loop of yarn and hold, insert hook into first of 5dc, replace working loop on hook and pull through dc.

Picot

Ch3, slst to back bump of first ch.

Rfpsc – {reverse front post single crochet}

Like regular fpsc insert your hook from front to back around the post of the indicated stitch, but to reverse it work from the opposite side of the stitch. So, if you’re right-handed, instead of inserting your hook from right to left under the post of the stitch, insert it from left to right. If you’re left-handed, instead of inserting your hook from left to right under the post of the stitch, insert it from right to left. You will benefit from angling your work to accommodate doing this.

Standing dc

To start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through two loops on hook twice.

{Alternatively, slst to join yarn then ch3 to count as your first dc.}

Standing sc

To start a round, with slip knot on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops on hook.

Pattern

Round 1

Magic circle start: Begin with mc. {Click here for my double magic circle tutorial.} Beg-PC into mc, ch3, [PC in mc, ch3] 3 times. Close mc. Slst to beg-PC to join.

Alternatively, Chain loop start: Ch4, slst to first ch to form loop. Beg-PC into ch loop, ch3, [PC in ch loop, ch3] 3 times. Slst to beg-PC to join. {Tip: When weaving ends, use the end from the chain loop to close the very center of the loop by weaving it under the 4PC and pulling it tight.}

16 st around (4 PC, 4 ch3 sp)

{Note: Stitch markers – they’re optional, if you’re brave. You’ll need 40 of them. You can definitely do the pattern without them, but they will make it a lot easier if you use them. It’s up to you! (Remember: if you don’t have 40 stitch markers, small pieces of a contrasting color of yarn can be looped around the stitch too.)}

Round 2

With new color: Standing dc in any ch3 sp.

Or, with same color: Slst into next ch3 sp, Ch3 {counts as first dc here and throughout}.

(Dc, ch2, 3dc) in same sp.

*^Dc in next PC {do not work a post stitch, work into the top 2 loops of the PC},^ (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next ch3 sp.*

Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more.

Dc in the ch3 sp you started in, before the standing dc. Slst to first dc to join. 

{Optional: Pm around post of 3^rd and 5^th st of each side.}

7 dc per side {not counting ch2 corners}

Round 3

With new color: Standing dc in any corner ch2 sp.

Or, with same color: Slst into next dc and corner ch2 sp and ch3 {counts as first dc here and throughout}. 

(Dc, ch2, 2dc) in same corner ch2 sp.

*^Dc in each dc across to next corner,^ (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next corner ch2 sp.*

Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. 

{Optional: Pm around post of 4^th and 8^th st of each side.}

11 dc per side

Round 4

Repeat round 3. 

{Optional: Pm around post of 5^th and 11^th st of each side.}

15 dc per side

Round 5

Repeat round 3.

{Optional: Pm around post of 6^th and 14^th st of each side.}

19 dc per side

Round 6

Repeat round 3. Fasten off.

{Optional: Pm around 7^th and 17^th st of each side.}

23 dc per side

{Note: Keep your ch1 sps on the loose side for rounds 7 through 9.}

Round 7

With new color: Standing sc in 6^th dc of any side.

*^Ch1, fpsc around next {marked} dc, ch1, [fpsc around next {marked} dc 1 round below, ch1] 4 times, fpsc around r1 PC, ch1, [rfpsc around next {marked} dc 1 round up, ch1] 5 times, sc in next r6 dc {the 6th dc counting back from the next corner}, hdc in next 5dc, (2hdc, picot, 2hdc) in corner ch2 sp, hdc in next 5dc,^ sc in next dc.*

Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more.

Slst to first sc to join {or invisible join for a cleaner look, click here for my invisible join tutorial}. Fasten off.

4 picot, 56 hdc, 24 fpsc, 20 rfpsc, 8 sc, 48 ch1 sp

Round 8

{Note: In this round the fpsc and rfpsc will all be made around dc that are to the inside of the marked dc, or, if you didn’t use stitch markers, to the inside of the dc with the fpsc and rfpsc from the last round.}

With new color: Standing sc in the 7^th r6 dc of any side {the one with the sm and the r7 fpsc}.

*^Ch1, fpsc around next r6 dc, ch1, [fpsc around next dc 1 round below, ch1] 4 times {the last fpsc may be hidden by the fpsc around the PC}, ch1, [rfpsc around next dc 1 row up, ch1] 4 times, sc in next r6 dc {the one with the sm and r7 fpsc}, ch1.
Working in r7: sk next sc, hdc in 3LO of next 6hdc, 2hdc in 3LO of next hdc, picot, sk r7 picot, 2hdc in 3LO of next hdc, hdc in 3LO of next 6hdc, ch1, sk next sc.^

Sc in next r6 dc with sm and r7 fpsc.*

Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more.

Slst to first sc to join {or invisible join for a cleaner look}. Fasten off.

4 picot, 64 hdc, 20 fpsc, 16 rfpsc, 8 sc, 48 ch1 sp

Round 9

{Note: Again in this round, all fpsc and rfpsc will be made around dc to the inside of the dc with the fpsc and rfpsc from the last round.}

With new color: Standing sc in the 8^th r6 dc of any side {the one right after the r8 sc}.

*^Ch1, fpsc around next r6 dc, ch1, [fpsc around next dc 1 round below, ch1] 3 times, ch1, [rfpsc around next dc 1 row up, ch1] 3 times, sc in next r6 dc {the one before the one with the r8 sc}, ch2.

Working r8: sk next sc and ch1 sp, hdc in 3LO of next 7hdc, 2hdc in 3LO of next hdc, picot, sk r8 picot, 2hdc in 3LO of next hdc, hdc in 3LO of next 7hdc, ch2, sk next ch1 and sc.^

Sc in r6 dc with the r8 fpsc.*

Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more.

Slst to first sc to join {or invisible join for a cleaner look}. 

Remove all sm. Fasten off.

4 picot, 72 hdc, 16 fpsc, 12 rfpsc, 8 sc, 8 ch2 sp, 32 ch1 sp

Round 10

With new color: Standing sc in 3LO of first hdc after any r9 ch2 sp, sc in 3LO of next 8hdc.

*^Ch3, sk picot, sc in 3LO of next 9hdc, ch6, PC in center r6 dc, ch6,^ sc in 3LO of next 9hdc from r9.*

Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more.

Slst to first sc to join. 

4 PC, 72 sc, 8 ch6 sp, 4 ch3 sp

Round 11

{Note: If you’re not fond of somewhat larger holes in your square (about 2 fingers) you can make a simple adjustment to this round – instead of (tr, ch3, tr) make (tr, 3edc, tr) into the indicated st. See the special stitches for edc instructions. Then, when making r12, place 1 sc in each st.}

With new color: Standing sc in first r10 sc after any ch6 sp. 

Or, with same color: Ch1 and sc in same st as join.

Sc in next 8sc.

*^(2sc, ch2, 2sc) in next corner ch3 sp, sc in next 9sc, ch1, keeping work in front of r10 ch6 sp (tr, ch3, tr) in r6 dc with the r9 fpsc, fpsc around r10 PC, (tr, ch3, tr) in next r6 dc with the r9 rfpsc, ch1,^ sc in next 9 r10 sc.*

Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more.

Slst to first sc to join. 

16 tr, 88 sc, 4 fpsc, 8 ch3 sp, 4 ch2 sp, 8 ch1 sp

{Note: Depending on how your square is growing you can alter the next two rounds as needed. Round 12 can be made as hdc (use hdc, ch2, hdc in the corners) or dc (use 2dc, ch2, 2dc in the corners) instead of sc. You can do the same with r13 or leave it off entirely.}

Round 12

With new color: Standing sc in first r11 sc after any ch1 sp

Or, with same color: Ch1 and sc in same st as join.

Sc in next 10 sc.

*^(Sc, ch2, sc) in next corner ch2 sp, sc in next 11 sc.

Working into r11 AND r10 ch6 sp together: sc in next ch1 sp, sc in next tr, 3sc in next ch3 sp, sc in next tr.

Sc in next fpsc.

Working into r11 AND r10 ch6 sp together: sc in next tr, 3sc in next ch3 sp, sc in next tr, sc in next ch1 sp.^

Sc in next 11 sc.*

Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more.

Slst to first sc to join.

148 sc

Round 13 (Optional for size)

With new color: Standing sc in any sc.

Or, with same color: Ch1 and sc in same st as join.

Sc in each sc across to corner.

*(Sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 sp, sc in each st across side.*

Repeat from * to * three times more.

Slst to first sc to join.

156 sc

{Note: When blocking, r12 & 13 might need some extra pins in the middle where the scs are worked into ch sps. Also, keep in mind that while the edge may not want to lay straight upon completion, it will straighten out when joined to other squares.}